Mount Rainier, Maryland-Earth Day 2010

"The Rain Barrel  Workshop"

IMPORTANT!! READ SO YOU DON'T ORDER WRONG BUNG!


2" NPT Plug x 2" Buttress Drum Adapter: $7.28
For flow into 2" Pipe--this for the flow INTO the barrel.

2" Buttress Thread x 3/4" Bung Adapter: $1.50
For pipe to feed spigot for a single barrel system. 

You absolutely need the 2" NPT Plug x 2"Buttress Adapter for this "No Pierce" Barrel system to work. as sketched.  IF you are ordering the 2" Buttress adapter you might as well order(for $1.50)the 2" Buttress Thread x 3/4" Adapter makes a better connection for the PVC to the 3/4" pipe that would go to spigot on a single barrel system(see note below.) 

If you use this system, no puncture of barrel is ever necessary...and this where most barrels fail and leak...and trust me...life is simpler rather than cutting and retrofitting.  Again, if you do not have this  bung adapter, the sketches will not apply. 

Also, this system relies on the diverter to redirect tank overflow....so if you chose not to do the diverter--look at "other options" for handling overflow" for the system.  My preference for the barrel positions is the "Keg Position" because it is easiest to do, low profile, and can be easily secured into the ground to avoid movement.  Please see "Sketches" for further explanation.

Below is a 2" male adapter with fine thread that is commonly found at hardware stores or Home Depot/Lowes(compare the threads on this to the bung adapter that is screwed into the barrel--they are different and no amount of caulk will seal.)

This part  is screwed into the bung adapter. The barrel holes only accept coarse thread adapters(see above) and thus you can not use standard plumbing supplies... The 2" pipe is then glued onto the adapter end ....now you can use any standard PVC plumbing supplies.

Below is the typical cap that a barrel from a container supplier  comes with(only use barrels that have been used for non-toxics or food.) 

Note there is a fine thread 3/4" plug but I do not advise using because it strips very easily(i.e. leaks) and is fairly short.  For $1.50 you can buy a better made bung adapter with a 3/4" adaption...see link above.

This is a picture of the 2" bung adapter and 2" fine thread male adapter screwed together... go the extra mile and silcone where they connect for better seal. 

Now you can start using 2" PVC pipe to follow the sketches.

So what is a "No Pierce" rain barrel?

Simply put, it is a method for using the existing openings of the barrel to enter and exit the water collected from the downspout without piercing the barrel itself.  Below are the many reasons I do not advise piercing the barrels to create a rain barrel.

1.) Potential leaking by poorly installed bulkheads. Most bulkheads have to be tightened on occasion to keep tight and leak proof.  It is a pain to reach down into a 3' barrel and do this. Conversely, an adapter may also need to be tightened but this is on the outside of the container.  Also the sides of the barrel are curved making a flush fit even with caulk or rubber rings more difficult given plastic heats up and expands and contracts over the coarse of the day.
 
2.)  Bulkheads are more expensive than the retrofitting with adapters and PVC pipe.  The adapters can be replaced if worn or leaking...once you cut a hole too large or strip the hole--the barrel is going to be difficult to repair if at all possible.  Also you limit it's potential uses if you want to do something else with the barrel-for example-- make it a compost bin  or use it to store fluids as it was originally intended--holes in the wrong places limit how the container could be used again.  Also, depending on the size of the holes and location, cutting holes can lead to the container sides sagging because the structure has been compromised.

3.) Large opening in barrels are potential gateways to breed mosquitoes.. .I don't care how well you screen.  It is usually not a tight enough fit from all homemade barrels  that I have seen.

4.) Openings in the barrel are ways for unsuspecting wildlife looking for water to get trapped or ensnared in the openings to drown.

5.) The amount of water you can draw from the barrel is reduced.   Where ever you pierce for the outfall of water for overflow--that is your water level.  Where ever you pierce for the spigot, you lose the water below the pierce line.  If you have attached several barrels together--this becomes a significant amount of water in percentage of actual storage space.

Some Sketches--for DIY...I know these systems work but I expressly DO NOT take any professional liability for their failure.  Seriously, these sketches are meant to help that homeowner who wants to make a difference and do it themselves...SO have fun and be creative! If you run into questions, email me and I will see if I can help.